I was repeatedly told my bike lock (3kg armored cable lock from ABUS) is crap, should have a better one for my bike. I started reading up on the subject, here is a concise summary of my findings. See reference articles at the bottom. Just read the first 2 sections if you do not have time!
Read reviews before making a choice on the specific models: chain locks can also have weak points ("He found a weak link in the HipLok L1 Lite, snipping the shackle with bolt cutters in 29 seconds.").
Caveat emptor: these are heavy(!!!) and rattling pieces, you will have to wear them or put them e.g. into a backpack, cannot really fix it on the bike while riding.
U-locks (or D-locks) are the second best choices, hardest to cut through, however if large, a car jack can easily inserted into it. The smaller it is (against jacks) the harder it is to find a sufficiently narrow but strong object at the right height to lock your bike to. :(
If you by this, choose one that is locked on both ends of the U part:
"Sold Secure is an independent organisation administered by the Master Locksmiths Association. Locks submitted receive one of three ratings: Gold, Silver or Bronze. These reflect the length of time a lock will hold out against escalating levels of attack. Bronze is a minute with basic tools; Silver is three, with a wider array of tools; Gold is five minutes with a more sophisticated array of tools.
The largest manufacturers also submit to the German and Dutch ART1 to 5+ standards. These are a very tough standard and worth looking out for. Gold or high ART-rated locks can be more expensive but they may help you get a discount on your insurance if you use one."
Principles
- If you leave your bike in a place without traffic and people the thief can try to break your lock forever - and no lock can withstand that.
- If you choose a crowded place to lock your bike lock only has to take longer to hack than the one on the next similar bike - they will pick the easier to break.
- You should spend at least 10% of the value of your bike on your lock.
The winner
Without further ado: buy hardened steel squared or hexagonal link chains with hardened steel integrated locks or padlocks: these swing away from the angle grinder, slip out of the bolt cutters, resist longer than any other kind except for the best U-locks, with which however it is pretty hard to find any object to lock to where I live (Budapest, Hungary).Read reviews before making a choice on the specific models: chain locks can also have weak points ("He found a weak link in the HipLok L1 Lite, snipping the shackle with bolt cutters in 29 seconds.").
Caveat emptor: these are heavy(!!!) and rattling pieces, you will have to wear them or put them e.g. into a backpack, cannot really fix it on the bike while riding.
Good examples
- ABUS Granit CityChain X-Plus - 1.9kg (85cm) - 3.7kg (170cm)
- OnGuard 8020 Mastiff ("hardened-steel links withstood a hacksaw and bolt cutters. After nearly three minutes of use, the battery in Ruzal's angle grinder died before he could cut the shackle") - 7kg
- OXFORD NEMESIS MOTORCYCLE ULTRA STRONG CHAIN and PADLOCK 1.5M - 9kg
- Blackburn ATTICA CHAIN AND PAD LOCK - 6kg
Second best
If you by this, choose one that is locked on both ends of the U part:
- ABUS Granit X-Plus
- ONGUARD Brute
- Kryptonite New York Lock
- Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock
- Kryptonite Evolution Series 4
Not recommended
- Masterlock Force 3 - long term problems reported (ref. no. 11)
- TiGr - - easy target for bolt cutters and angle grinders (ref. no. 11)
Tools
This is what we are defending against:- Battery powered angle grinders: the most hardcore tool, quite fast, not quiet, but cuts through any metal with time:
- Hacksaw: basically the hand powered version of the above, slower and quieter:
- Jack: mainly used against U locks, quite fast and quiet:
- Bolt cutter: a cutting tool designed to yield a cutting force up to 100 times stronger than the force on the handle. Quick, quiet but clumsy:
- Wire cutter: basically small, pocketable version of the above, whichever lock cannot withstand this is a lost cause:
Standards
From reference no. 6:"Sold Secure is an independent organisation administered by the Master Locksmiths Association. Locks submitted receive one of three ratings: Gold, Silver or Bronze. These reflect the length of time a lock will hold out against escalating levels of attack. Bronze is a minute with basic tools; Silver is three, with a wider array of tools; Gold is five minutes with a more sophisticated array of tools.
The largest manufacturers also submit to the German and Dutch ART1 to 5+ standards. These are a very tough standard and worth looking out for. Gold or high ART-rated locks can be more expensive but they may help you get a discount on your insurance if you use one."
References
- Bike locking 101 in Hungarian - not fully agreed, but do not buy that they don't recommend
- German test TV show, obviously biased towards / sponsored by ABUS
- A quick comparison (only care about what is best recommended)
- A New York based mechanic shows you how easy it is: cable lock cut with wire cutters - unbiased
- Suggests u-lock for portability, however still chain is best for security and flexibility
- An in-depth guide
- Nice tips in there: GPS tracker and to use an additional cable for the wheel not hold by the chain
- Some more chain locks
- Shows that the fashionable Hip Lock chain lock is actually only Silver rated, still at the top of the league
- How to lock it? with either a chain or a U lock
- Another detailed write up
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